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Budgerigar Breeding
Selecting a Pair: If you are going to breed, it is important to select a
healthy pair of Budgies. The pair should have no respiratory
problems, healthy plumage, and no nasal or eye discharges. A
healthy Budgie will also be alert and active. A Budgie with ruffled
feathers and sitting alone from flock members should not be used.
If there is no reaction towards humans, avoid considering him as a
breeder bird. Also, young Budgies should not be used. They can
easily develop problems if forced into breeding very early. For
example, a young hen that is forced into breeding can develop many
complications such as being egg bound (an illness that does not
allow the female to pass the egg and usually results in death).
Young males will be infertile.
Picking mature parakeets for your breeding program can be done by
following these three rules.
- The eyes of mature parakeets will exhibit yellow
irises.
- Their beaks will be solid colors of brown, beige, or
tan. Young Budgies will have small patches of black on their
beaks.
- The cere, or skin above the nose or nostrils, will
not be pink. A male Budgie’s cere will be blue and a female’s
will be brown.
If the age of the Budgie is still not evident or you are unsure, ask
the breeder who sold you the bird. Most breeders keep detailed
records of their birds.
Supplies:
- Breeding Cage
- Nesting Box
- Bedding (Cedar or Pine Shavings)
- Brooder (Incubator)
When choosing the right supplies for your Budgie, be sure to think
ahead. Thinking ahead means using equipment that can easily be
cleaned and disinfected. A breeding cage should be used with trays
that can be removed, a grill to avoid the birds from stepping on
their feces, and doors for easy access.
The nesting box should be chosen carefully. The ideal box is one
that can be hung outside the cage for easy access to the babies. A
breeder often needs to band the chick’s legs and observe the
development of the babies. A nesting box that is hung inside the
cage should not be used. These boxes are quickly used as platforms
for the courting parents, and as a result, covered with feces.
The bedding of the nesting box is also important. It provides
traction for the babies and prevents any growth deformities such as
splayed legs (legs that grow outward rather then their natural
position). The bedding should be cedar or pine shavings. Some
breeders choose to change the bedding once the chicks start to
feather out; however, this can cause the mother to abandon the nest.
If the bedding is changed, it is important to block the entrance
hole so the mother cannot enter the nesting box. Place the babies
inside a brooder and quickly remove the bedding and scrape out any
droppings. When the nesting box is clean, put the babies back and
keep an eye on them to ensure the mother has resumed her duties.
The perches and dishes should also be arranged correctly. Bowls
should not be placed under perches and perches not above bowls.
Contaminated food and water can cause serious croup infections with
the chicks.
Courting & Mating:
Once the Budgies have been selected and the proper equipment has
been purchased, the birds should start to court. During the
courting process, the male Budgie will start to vocalize and dance.
This dance and ritual consists of the throat feathers ruffling up,
bobbing of the head, and walking back and forth near his mate. This
dance excites the female and she begins looking for a cavity to
nest. This process will repeat until the female allows the male to
mate with her.
When the female parakeet is ready to mate, her head will arch back,
her wings will slightly open, and her eyes will pin. The male will
mount the female and copulating will begin. The female will usually
lay her eggs a day or two after mating.
Incubating and Hatching:
The clutch can consist of two to six eggs. Some females will lay
more; however, any more than six should be removed. During the
duration of the incubation, which is 18 days, the male will feed the
hen while she sits. Some males will sit inside the box with the
hen. Around 16 or 17 days into incubation, the eggs will have small
cracks made by the chicks (called the pip hole). This means
hatching can be expected shortly. The chicks are likely to hatch 24
hours after the first pip hole.
Chicks:
Once the chicks
hatch, the mother will sit on them. She will begin feeding them a
few hours after hatching. The food she feeds them is a concoction
of enzymes and cells packed with nutrients to help develop their
immune systems. During this period, the chicks will experience
rapid growth and will soon start to feather as the weeks pass. The
father will asset in feeding the chicks as well. As they get older
and can produce their own heat, the female will spend more hours
outside the nesting box. During this time, feed the parents a
variety of soft foods such as corn, crushed boiled eggs, and
pellets.
Around four weeks, the babies will be curious and peek outside their
nesting box. Most start exploring their surroundings and some
babies will not leave the box until five weeks. Once the chicks are
confident enough to step outside the box, the female and male will
encourage them to fly. These babies are now called fledglings and
can depend on their parents for up to 7 weeks before they are weaned
(eating of their own).
After the chicks
are completely independent, they should be removed and placed into a
flight cage. The used nesting box should immediately be cleaned and
put away until you decide to breed again. Parakeets should be
allowed to breed twice a year followed by a years break afterwards.
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