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Budgerigar Breeding

Selecting a Budgie Pair
If you are going to breed, it
is important to select a healthy pair of Budgies. The pair should
have no respiratory problems, healthy plumage, and no nasal or eye
discharges. A healthy Budgie will also be alert and active. A
Budgie with ruffled feathers and sitting alone from flock members
should not be used. If there is no reaction towards humans, avoid
considering him as a breeder bird. Also, young Budgies should
not be used. They can easily develop problems if forced into
breeding very early. For example, a young hen that is forced into
breeding can develop many complications such as being egg bound
(an illness that does not allow the female to pass the egg and
usually results in death). Young males will be infertile.
Picking mature parakeets for your breeding program
can be done by following these three rules.
- The eyes
of mature parakeets will exhibit yellow irises.
- Their
beaks will be solid colors of brown, beige, or tan. Young
Budgies will have small patches of black on their beaks.
- The cere,
or skin above the nose or nostrils, will not be pink. A male
Budgie’s cere will be blue and a female’s will be brown.
If the age of the Budgie is still not evident or
you are unsure, ask the breeder who sold you the bird. Most
breeders keep detailed records of their birds.
Parrot Supplies

-
Breeding Cage
-
Nesting Box
-
Bedding (Cedar or Pine Shavings)
-
Brooder (Incubator)
When choosing the right supplies for your Budgie,
be sure to think ahead. Thinking ahead means using equipment that
can easily be cleaned and disinfected. A breeding cage should be
used with trays that can be removed, a grill to avoid the birds
from stepping on their feces, and doors for easy access.
The nesting box should be chosen carefully. The
ideal box is one that can be hung outside the cage for easy access
to the babies. A breeder often needs to band the chick’s legs and
observe the development of the babies. A nesting box that is hung
inside the cage should not be used. These boxes are quickly used
as platforms for the courting parents, and as a result, covered
with feces.
The bedding of the nesting box is also important.
It provides traction for the babies and prevents any growth
deformities such as splayed legs (legs that grow outward rather
then their natural position). The bedding should be cedar or
pine shavings. Some breeders choose to change the bedding once the
chicks start to feather out; however, this can cause the mother to
abandon the nest. If the bedding is changed, it is important to
block the entrance hole so the mother cannot enter the nesting
box. Place the babies inside a brooder and quickly remove the
bedding and scrape out any droppings. When the nesting box is
clean, put the babies back and keep an eye on them to ensure the
mother has resumed her duties.
The perches and dishes should also be arranged
correctly. Bowls should not be placed under perches and perches
not above bowls. Contaminated food and water can cause serious
croup infections with the chicks.
Budgie Courting & Mating
Once the Budgies have been
selected and the proper equipment has been purchased, the birds
should start to court. During the courting process, the male
Budgie will start to vocalize and dance. This dance and ritual
consists of the throat feathers ruffling up, bobbing of the head,
and walking back and forth near his mate. This dance excites the
female and she begins looking for a cavity to nest. This process
will repeat until the female allows the male to mate with her.
When the female parakeet is ready to mate, her head
will arch back, her wings will slightly open, and her eyes will
pin. The male will mount the female and copulating will begin.
The female will usually lay her eggs a day or two after mating.
Budgie Incubating and
Hatching

The clutch can consist of two to six eggs. Some
females will lay more; however, any more than six should be
removed. During the duration of the incubation, which is 18 days,
the male will feed the hen while she sits. Some males will sit
inside the box with the hen. Around 16 or 17 days into
incubation, the eggs will have small cracks made by the chicks
(called the pip hole). This means hatching can be expected
shortly. The chicks are likely to hatch 24 hours after the first
pip hole.
Budgie Chicks

Once the chicks hatch, the mother will sit on
them. She will begin feeding them a few hours after hatching.
The food she feeds them is a concoction of enzymes and cells
packed with nutrients to help develop their immune systems.
During this period, the chicks will experience rapid growth and
will soon start to feather as the weeks pass. The father will
asset in feeding the chicks as well. As they get older and can
produce their own heat, the female will spend more hours outside
the nesting box. During this time, feed the parents a variety of
soft foods such as corn, crushed boiled eggs, and pellets.
Around four weeks, the babies will be curious and
peek outside their nesting box. Most start exploring their
surroundings and some babies will not leave the box until five
weeks. Once the chicks are confident enough to step outside the
box, the female and male will encourage them to fly. These babies
are now called fledglings and can depend on their parents for up
to 7 weeks before they are weaned (eating of their own).
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After the chicks
are completely independent, they should be removed and placed into
a flight cage. The used nesting box should immediately be cleaned
and put away until you decide to breed again. Parakeets should be
allowed to breed twice a year followed by a years break
afterwards. |
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