|
Breeding Cockatiels (Part 1)
Breeding Part 1
Breeding Part 2
Cockatiels are not difficult to breed; many will breed throughout
the year if the conditions are right. They often rival the budgie
for their willingness to breed. They come in many different color
mutations. Because of these traits, many breeders find breeding
cockatiels enjoyable as a hobby. Breeding healthy cockatiels takes
work by you and the breeding pair. These birds need to be kept
clean, have a variety of foods, and need to be continually
monitored. Many things can go wrong, and it is important that the
breeder be one step ahead of the parents. Producing healthy chicks
is an art.
Selecting a Pair:
When selecting a pair of cockatiels for breeding, it is important to
find healthy birds. Finding healthy birds can easily be done
through a reliable breeder or from local pet shops. When selecting
your birds, make sure their eyes are clear and there are no nasal
discharges. A healthy cockatiel will be alert and active. Though
they may sit on their perch ruffled up, your presence should cause
them to tighten their feathers. The bird should not be underweight
and its feathering should be sharp and smooth. Healthy cockatiels
make every effort to stay pristine.
Breeding Methods:
When
breeding, decide if you are going to colony breed cockatiels or if
you are going to breed pairs in individual cages. Whatever method
you choose, make sure it fits your budget, time, and birds. If you
decide to breed cockatiels in an aviary setting, keeping accurate
records is not possible. Though cockatiels can form monogamous
bonds, they still tend to stray. As a result, producing mutations
can be difficult.
Breeding in individual cages has many benefits. Firstly, birds do
not have to compete for nesting sites and secondly accurate records
can be kept. This keeps aggression down and the pairs can
concentrate on producing healthy chicks. If the parents are allowed
to focus on the social dynamics of a flock many problems can arise.
Another advantage of isolating your breeding pairs is monitoring
the chick’s growth. It is much easier to remove babies from nesting
boxes mounted outside compartment cages. Aviaries make checking the
babies difficult. The babies need to be weighed and banded; having
easy access to them is less stressful on the parents and will less
likely cause them to abandon their babies.
Breeding Setup: It
is important to keep the cage as clean as possible. Chicks can
easily develop bacterial infections inside their crops if rancid
food or dirty water is left for their parents to eat or drink.
Special care must be used when placing perches into the cage.
Perches that are placed above food and water bowls will become
contaminated with poop. Food dishes and perches must be cleaned
regularly to keep harmful bacteria to a minimal.
When
breeding cockatiels in individual compartments, it is important to
keep the nesting box mounted outside the cage. The entrance hole
should be the only part exposed to the birds. A nesting box placed
inside a cage will end up as a courting platform and will be filled
with poop. This harbors bacteria and the chicks will be prone to
infections. If you choose to breed your cockatiels inside an aviary
setting, try to mount the boxes in such a way that the parents
cannot sit on them. However, this can be difficult to do since the
boxes need to be cleaned and disinfected after each clutch.
If
you are breeding cockatiels inside a breeding cage it needs to be
large enough to house two birds and their offspring. Keep in mind
cockatiels have large tails that need to be accommodated. The cage
should have doors for easy access to the birds, bowls, and perches.
Having cage trays help minimize mess and make cleaning easier.
The
cage needs to be located in a clam and quiet room. A sudden scare
can cause the female to thrash about her box, in turn, crushing or
cracking her eggs. Caution should always be used when approaching
the nesting site.
If an aviary is used proper care must
be used for its location. An aviary directly in the sun can kill
the chicks and overheat the mother if the temperature reaches above
90 degrees Fahrenheit. The bottom of the cage needs to be
reinforced with small wire mesh to avoid rodents or other critters
entering the aviary floor.
|