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Breeding Behavior
Lovebirds
should not be bred unless they are a year old and sexually mature.
Lovebirds can and sometimes do breed before a year; however, this
can cause complications. If a lovebird is setup with a mate and a
nesting box is installed, then courting and mating will follow.
Before any eggs are laid the female will construct a nest (provided
nesting material is available). Since lovebirds need extra moisture
during hatching and embryo
development, using nesting material high in moisture will make
hatching smoother. Palm fronds are ideal; however, they need to be
soaked and washed very well. If palm fronds are not available use
grasses that are still green. Be sure to do research before any
nesting material is placed inside the cage as it can be toxic. If
you cannot find nesting material, Aspen Chips and Carefresh are
ideal materials. Using newspapers or anything that acts like a
sponge will dry up the nest and cause more problems. The ink and
the paper are also very messy and will harden due to the droppings
the chicks leave—avoid newspapers if possible. Bacteria will thrive
well in wet dirty newspaper.
Depending on the species of lovebird you choose to breed, the female
will carry nesting material into the nest in various ways.
Peach-face Lovebirds for example, tuck nesting material in their
tail feathers while Green Masked Lovebirds carry nesting material
back with their beaks.
Once the lovebirds start constructing their nest, mating will
follow. During this time, the lovebirds will mate repeatedly and
you can expect eggs to follow 3-5 days later. The female will spend
hours inside her nesting box before eggs are laid. Just let her be
and do not disturb her. Once the first egg is laid a new egg will
follow every other day until the clutch is complete—usually 4 – 6
eggs.
The female will sit on her eggs for 21-23 days. Just before
hatching, the chicks will make a small crack or hole called a pip
hole. This allows them to start breathing oxygen. Not only does it
help them breath better, but it is an indication that hatching
should follow 12- 24 hours later.
 Once
the chicks hatch, it is important not to handle them. They are very
fragile and the mother will feed them. These first feedings are
crucial because the mother will feed them a clear liquid filled with
nutrients and enzymes for digestion. As the babies mature, the
mother will feed them regurgitated food from her food dishes. If
you choose to hand feed the chicks, remove them 8-10 days after
hatching. Removing one chick at a time will cause the mother to
abandon the nest, if hand feeding, take them out at the same time.
Place them into a brooder, a warming enclosure, and begin the
process. Just be sure to let their crops empty completely before
their first feedings, then give them the formula. If you are
inexperienced in hand feeding, do not try to hand feed the babies
yourself. Many complications can arise for inexperienced hand
feeders.
The first few feedings might be difficult; however, most babies
eagerly accept feedings. Some breeders choose to spoon feed while
others use a syringe. Whatever method you choose take caution and be
prepared for lots of work. If you choose not to hand feed, but want
to interact with the babies daily while their mother feeds them,
that is fine as long as she isn’t frightened and accepts your
company. This produces tame babies and saves you the work of hand
feeding. Just be sure to handle the babies three times a day for 15
minutes. While the babies are younger and fewer feathers are
present, hold no longer than a few minutes at a time. The babies can
easily get cold and weak if they are away from their mother for too
long. As the babies mature handling can be increased.
As the chicks grow, which is a matter of weeks, they will feather
out and start to
leave the nest. During this time they will practice flying and
exploring objects inside their cage. The mother will persuade them
to eat on their own until fully weaned, which is around 8 weeks old.
After the babies are weaned and flying skills have been developed,
clipping the bird’s wings is acceptable and suggested. Clipping the
birds’ wings will ensure that your bird doesn’t accidentally fly
away. The babies should be removed once they are all independent.
If the babies are not removed, the mother could harm them due to
wanting to nest again.
To avoid extra breeding or aggressiveness, remove the nesting box
and clean it out. Then put it away and save it for next year.
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